How To Clean Gas Ports On Remington 1100

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remijm Member

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Apr 9, 2009

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I've seen a couple of good threads on this subject but unortunately the advice given hasnt been enough to solve my problem. Looks like I have a semiblocked port to the piston of my Remington 1100 trap shotgun so ejection is weak and often doesnt happen at all. I've tried all sorts of wire and substances to get it opened up but nothings working so far. The left port is only half the diameter of the right port and I can only just squeeze a thin wire through. On the other port it passes no problem. Anyone got any solution to a subborn dirt issue? Tried lighter fluid, gun oil and more, but its not helping. Thanks.
First a few questions
1. Are you sure they were the same size from the begining? I have heard that some of the specialty versions have different porting than the field grades.
2. Is the load that is failing to cycle now, one that has reliably cycled before?
3. how light is the load that is failing to cycle?
4. And when all else fails, ask Virginian.
Some people use a drill bit to clean it out. Just make sure you are very careful to get the exact size of your hole. NOT bigger! I stress......be very careful in cleaning it as you don't want to mess up your port hole!
Someone chime in on this if this a not recommended please but I've seen it done and have read about other peeps that do it that way.
Use a torch tip cleaner. Small at first and work your way up until you get it cleaned. You might spray a little Break Free CLP ahead of time to let it soak a little before using the tip cleaner. That crud can be hard and a bear to get out of that hole.
Of course check your o-ring, gas seal condition, and make sure everything is oriented in the right direction.
Use a drill bit.
12ga-34" Trap Barrel ports .079"/ #47 drill
12ga-30/28/26/22" Barrel ports .079"/ #47 drill
One the right size or smaller should do it. If you use one of those little finger twist drill handles there is small risk of damage. Those barrels are not soft.
The #47 drill bit is probably not going to work well. It's too big. I'd go with a #49 or even a #50 drill bit to be safe. Remember not to attach the drill bit to a drill, just push it in and out with your fingers. Should dislodge everything without having to twist it. Then just run a patch through the bore. If you're going out to buy one, put a drop of Hoppe's #9 or some other carbon cutter type liquid in the ports to loosen up the caked-on stuff. Similar thread to read through here:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=435920

Here's what size they actually are. #47 would actually be really tight. If you want to risk it, I'd go no bigger than #48:

#50 = 0.070
#49 = 0.073
#48 = 0.076
#47 = 0.079
#46 = 0.081
#45 = 0.082
#44 = 0.086
Okay, you made me check. I don't remember where I got those sizes, and I can't find my da-* pin vice and all my small drill bits, but a 0.076" torch tip cleaner is not the least bit tight in the 12 gauge ports, but the 20gauge ports are supposed to be 0.076", according to the same table, and it is tight in them. Take it for what its worth. Heck, a #50 would probably clean his port out fine.
P.S. - Hey Badger, I lived in New Bern for 12 years. Miss it. Good people, nice country.
remijm Member

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Apr 9, 2009

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thank you all for the advice. Clearly Its going to require something delicate but brutish to free up the port. I was thinking along the lines of something chemical to dissolve the carbon deposit if thats what it is but was worried about the possibility of damaging the finish to the barrel. As to the cause, the shells I been using recently are an Italian brand called RC. Most of the locals at the club are using these but only myself is using a semi-auto. Coincidentally I started to use a snake cleaner just before this happened and it is a extremely tight fit, so I just wonder if the snake has lodged dirt in there as it passes through. Time will tell. Once I get it working again I'll have a better idea. Thanks for now! I will update you on progress..
I used a 5/64" drill bit in my drill to slightly open and clean out the gas ports in my 12 gauge 1100. It works well. You shouldn't have a problem doing the same.
The bore of the 1100 is not chrome lined like the Beretta or Benelli, so it's no problem. You might start with a 1/16" bit and see if that works OK. Once that one goes in and out easily, move up to the 5/64" bit.
remijm Member

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Apr 9, 2009

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5
well happiness is a Remington that ejects cleanly! (-;
In fact living in europe its hard to find those sizes but I did the conversion and invested in half a dozen 1 and 1.5mm drill bits(=0.059"). I got down to the last one before I got both holes in better shape. There were moments when I wondered but it worked! Thanks guys. I went down to the trap stand and tested my skeet barrel first then the full trap barrel just to be sure the problem was the blocked port and it was. As far as cleaning , does anyone have advice on how I should be cleaning the 1100? I generally give it a good oil, clean the barrel and piston itself removing as much carbon deposit as possible. Many thanks.
Pipe cleaners.
remijm,
I do not know what brands of pipe cleaners you have where you are, however they make a "regular" and "bristle".

<hang on...quick search>

http://www.alternativesmoke.com/html/smoking-accessories/dills-tobacco-pipe-cleaners-273.html

The yellow package is Regular, the red package is Bristle ( more coarse).

After shooting just run a regular pipe cleaner , while the barrel is still warm.
I have used Browning Gun Oil, Napier's of London, Philips...Remoil, Breakfree...
to assist in "punching the ports".
Apply, let these soften residue, to make it easier to clean.

Warning: The Bristle is coarse, it will scratch bluing, still it is very useful for punching ports, especially if the ports have not been cleaned in a bit, or the loadings have unusual residue.

I also use regular pipe cleaners to clean extraction, breech face, and even chamber.

Every range bag should have pipe cleaners.
A handy reference guide......
Those notes at the bottom of the chart are very good information.
remijm Member

Joined:

Apr 9, 2009

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5
dont know where you guys come up with this stuff but it seems to work!
Excellent cleaning guide too. More than meets the eye to this.
The blocked port experience was not one of my favourites!

Last edited: Apr 12, 2009
Didn't realize you were in Europe. We have some good products for gun cleaning here. I prefer Break Free. It's a decent cleaner, a great lube, and an OUTSTANDING rust preventative all rolled into one. I've used EEZOX in the past and find that superior for Cold Climates when I lived in Alaska. If you don't have access to these, you might try Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. Some have used that with good results.
To clean after range sessions, I just take the barrel off. I clean by swabbing the bore (patch of linen wrapped around a "Tornado Brush") with a healthy amount of Break Free. A drop in each gas port and lay the Break Free on thick on the inside of the gas cylinder/barrel lug. Set that aside and let the solvents work while you wipe the outside of the mag tube down good. Wipe the bolt face and recess inside the receiver where the barrel goes. Finish with a thorough once-over on the gas piston with nylon brush and patches. A quick run-through with a drill bit on each port and then two "damp" patches through the bore. Wipe down the outside of everything and reassemble. About once a year or after hunting season (if you hunt) take the trigger mechanism out and fully field strip it.
running some pipe cleaners through the holes soaked in hoppes number 9 after each outing will prevent serious build up.
I probably clean my gas ports once every 5 years whether they need it or not. Usually a toothpick because my torch tip cleaners are out in the garage. I have never had one get dirty, even when I used to get quantity discounts on Blue Dot, but I have seen a few. I think some of the old fiber base shotshells used to shed pieces that were bad actors, but don't know for sure what the source of problems is/was.
Badger Arms
What book is this from?

Sorry, I got it from another Forum ages ago. Can't remember.

But here is a nice photo instead..........
The book is Jerry Kuhnhausen's "The Remington M870 and M1100/1187 Shotguns, A Shop Manual." Published by VSP Publishers.
Dan
As stated above (pipe cleaners)soaked in hmm i use
Bio diesel made from oil seed rape or ronson petrol lighter fluid.

Both seem to break down the resadue of a HEAVY session on

the range or in the field.
remijm Member

Joined:

Apr 9, 2009

Messages:

5
well I guess that should about do it. Thanks for all this useful information. Its the second Remington 1100 I've owned
the first my father bought us when I was probably around 11 years old and the only problem we ever had with it was the gas seal going one day after extended use. I was not flavour of the day on that particular occasion. To this day (30 years later) it still works just fine and we didnt pay any particular attention to port cleaning. That says plenty about the weapon..but thankfully we now have internet!